Arabian Nights

In the middle of the day, on a random Monday afternoon in October, I emerged from the air-conditioned apartment complex I had been visiting and stepped out into the mid-90 degree heat.  Although I was standing in the shade, the heat still blanketed me and my skin instantly became tacky.  As I surveyed the deserted street, I suddenly heard a beautiful male voice chanting, singing…marking the mid-day call to prayer from the mosque that was two blocks away.  I had no idea what the voice was saying, but I was mesmerized by how the sound reverberated through the complex and I instantly reveled in the serendipitous event.  There is no way to calculate how long I stood there, transfixed.  But that captivation led to a moment of introspection and for a fleeting second, I was a believer. 

My desire to visit the Middle East had been growing for some time.  Through my Women’s Studies minor in college, I’ve learned a decent amount about this area of the world, the customs and the lifestyle.  Considering that the United Arab Emirates is probably the safest country in the Middle East, I couldn’t wait to hop a plane and see the area with my own eyes, cross checking my basic knowledge with the reality that would be before me.

 

In a country where gas is cheaper than water, camel racing is a sport, and the aroma of incense and rubbing alcohol is ever-present, I quickly learned how unique and diverse the area was, in many ways.  At every turn I noticed things I didn’t expect to see, which made me realize how much I had to learn about this country and this culture, even though I thought I was somewhat knowledgable before embarking. 

At the Palace Museum in Al Ain, I spotted this quote:

It was a challenge for me to not view the veiled women as oppressed, considering I have grown up in the US and the way of life is just so different.  However, during the museum tour, I had a chance to hear about the UAE’s short history (yet long bloodline) and how some forward thinking helped to unite the Emirates, keep the peace and invest in its people.  After gaining that knowledge I began to see how the people of this country have many opportunities to learn and grow.  I guess I just never considered the topic of oppression to be subjective, just like I never thought a conservative culture could be progressive at the same time, but I suppose not everything is as black and white as I sometimes think it is :-). 

Even though I am not a religious person, I still tend to be in awe of any spiritual structure.  My love of architecture combined with my theatre background leads me to religious centers all over the world.  The spectacle of a religious ritual or the atmosphere that a structure can impose can transport an onlooker to a place of peace, regardless of what their personal beliefs are.  The effects of the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi were no different. 

And yes, this is me, donning an abaya…. 

Don’t get me wrong, I would have preferred not to have worn this, but it was an interesting cultural happening to take part in, and if that was needed for admittance, then it was definitely worth it.  The mosque was absolutely amazing and I am so happy to have experienced being there. 

The best part of the journey was being able to stay with friends in Al Ain.  Between trivia night at the rugby club, a pool party, Moodz dance club, and the Sandance Festival on the Palm Islands of Dubai (where The Fray performed!), I had ample opportunities to meet people from all over the world who are living and working in the UAE.  These events are clearly for western people to hang out (and yes, drink alcohol), but it was still really educational and lots of fun.

During the few days that I was left to my own devices, more or less, I took many recommendations and saw the areas that my friends suggested, which included some touristy yet culturally significant places.  I saw impressive malls, modern cities, skyscrapers like the Burj Khalifa, Jabel Hafeet (which is the UAE’s tallest peak…and extremely peaceful), and experienced a desert safari. 

Burj Khalifa – the tallest building in the world

camel ride!!!

There was such a nice mix of tradition vs. modernity and I am so appreciative of the opportunity to really see this country as the locals do.  My time in the Middle East was very well spent and I hope more sultry Arabian nights will feed my soul in the future.   

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