I couldn’t wait for my day trip to the Old Town. Today, it’s known as Kota, or Kota Tua, but in the early 17th century, when the Dutch had gained control of the region, it was known as Batavia. Back in the day, this area was actually the capital of the Dutch East Indies and colonial influence can be seen all around the area, especially at Taman Fatahillah, the central cobblestone square.
The square is impossible to miss with hoards of street performers drawing mini crowds. The square is lined with impressive buildings, museums and cafe’s. I did notice quite a few Westerners, but they were all gathered in small groups in the safety of one nice café or another. I was getting quite a lot of attention being the only bule sitting on a plastic chair, in the midst of all the locals, eating delicious street food, out in the open.
With a very happy belly, it was time to walk around. Passing through a tourist trap shopping area and across the street, led to the beginning of Chinatown. Though not a very big area, there were so many shops, fabrics and food supplies available in those narrow alleyways. After a few minutes, the alleyway brought me to a beautiful temple. The unmistakable gate and aroma of incense drew me in and held me tight for a short spell.
Afterwards, it was time to retrace my steps. When I got back, the square was even more full, given that the sun was setting and the air was considerably cooler.
Even though it is known to be a bit pricey, give Café Batavia a try. The elegant building at the corner of the square is hard to miss. It’s a total trap, given that it’s a landmark and every guidebook sings it’s praises, but it is worth a look. I recommend a second floor table by the windows. The view is quite stunning, especially when the sun goes down and the lights in the square floor begin to come alive, marking walkways leading in every direction. And if you are on a budget, keep your order simple with just a quick drink. I tried a traditional Indonesian beverage called a Bajigur. It’s a mixture of coffee, salt, coconut milk, palm sugar and vanilla…delicious!
From the square, it’s only a few minutes walk to the train station where I loaded the Women’s Car and enjoyed a “leer-free” ride home. This country has an obsession with white skin. Sometimes it seems as though the locals have never seen a Westerner by the way they look at me. The girls wondering what it must feel like to have skin this light, because it seems as though the only standard they live by is the whiter you are, the more beautiful you are. Combine that with the men hearing imaginary wedding bells when they look in my direction, wondering how light-skinned their potential offspring would be, makes for annoying stares that grow tiresome very quickly. The women are never annoying, so the company of them on the train was quite nice as I made my way back home.
I very much enjoyed my day and hope to do more exploring of the area. With so many awesome museums, I will have to make a return trip on a day when I can come early…most of them close before 3pm!







