Catharsis

– a purging

– to purify from sin

A few years ago I was going through the saddest part of my life and was left feeling so empty.  I was constantly waiting for someone to be ready to go and do things with, to have exciting adventures with and to share soul-bearing experiences with.

As the reality and permanence of my situation was setting in, I realized that I may never have that one life partner to travel the globe with, to share never-ending education and excursions with.  And in the wake of the most turbulent waves, I was left feeling bereft of something…everything.

Before this point, I had traveled very little.  Almost instantly I began making plans and buying plane tickets.  It was a bittersweet moment because I felt that I was finally exercising all my pent-up desires in spite of my personal life and not because of it.

 

“Sometimes things fall apart so that better things can fall together.”   -Marilyn Monroe

 

I’m not exactly sure what I’m supposed to learn from that period of suffering.  Perhaps that will reveal itself to me later.  All I know is that my 20’s didn’t develop quite as I had expected, and that’s ok.  My 30’s are mine.  I’m living them for me and I’m choosing to continue my travels to soak up as much healthy, positive energy that the world can offer me.

This blog was started so I could share my experiences with someone, anyone, at a time when I felt that I sometimes had no one.  It’s a purging of my thoughts, dreams, realities and fears.  It was a wish to connect without the possibility of pain.  It has been a friend at lonely moments, and annoying boss at busy moments, and a guru at all the moments in between.

 

In the Indonesian language, “Terima Kasih” is the way of saying “Thank You.”  It literally translates to “receive love.”

 

The past few years have been quite a ride.  I’ve met some amazing people, seen some amazing places and I feel that I’ve done a lot of good while giving myself the gift of education.  I become a better person when I learn about other cultures.  I never blindly believe anything.  I make it a point to do some research, educate myself and make up my own mind, for myself…on any number of topics and issues.  I strive to always set a good human example and touch others in a way that leaves a kiss on their hearts instead of a scar.

So, to my 44 followers and all the others who have simply made my page a pit stop on their daily online journey, I must say “Thank You.”  Terima Kasih.  Please receive my love and do me the honor of passing it on.  I am a simple girl who is always far from loved ones and always wanting to have a farther reach, so pass on all that I have to give, as I never feel that I can adequately do enough on my own.  Thanks for being my travel companions through this exiting and humbling period of my life.

I appreciate everyone who thinks that my words are worth reading.  That notion alone holds more meaning than you could ever imagine.

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

A Weekend in Semarang

On a random weekend in June, I joined a friend on a journey to visit some family.  Armed with little more than a bag of donuts, we headed West to the Provincial capital of Central Java.  The six-hour train ride brought us to the city of Semarang.

I expected this city to be cool, beautiful and peaceful due to the miles of rolling hills, rice patty fields and glimpses of ocean and mountain along the way.  And…my expectations were met…and then exceeded.

This “village” had clean, crisp air, winding roads and no big buildings, unless you found yourself “downtown.”  Everything felt spread out and spacious, basically the opposite of Jakarta, which was quite refreshing.

After an evening of driving around the area, enjoying the local parks and eating beef sate, it was time to hit the hay.

The next day was full of adventure.  The first stop was Bandungan.  This was a mountain top, local tourist trap, and it was stunning.  The entrance fee granted visitors access to the mountain-top network of 9 Hindu temples.  Once inside, we could choose to pay an additional fee if we wanted to choose a temple route and explore on horseback.  Of course we chose the longest horseback route, because…why not?  The temperature was perfect, the scenery was breathtaking and I lost count of how many photos I took.

DSC04836  DSC04834

Later in the afternoon we headed to the Sam Poo Kong temple.  This is really a Chinese temple complex and it shouldn’t be rushed through.  At the entrance you are greeted by lots of paper lanterns hanging from trees near the seating area.

The other buildings are massive and spread out in three directions.  Although visitors can’t go in the buildings, it’s easy to admire the color, the design and all the beautiful decorations.

DSC04867 DSC04858

Just before sunset we went to see Lawang Sewu.  This is a historic building and Semarang’s most famous landmark.  It’s known as “Thousand Doors” and it is thought to be haunted.  This big complex was once the home of the Indonesian railways, but during WWII, Japanese occupation of the building led to dungeons of interrogation and gruesome atrocities.  It’s no wonder there may be some pissed-off spirits!

DSC04875

I’m so grateful for all the amazing things I’ve gotten to see in such a short period of time.  I’ve only scratched the surface, so I’m sure a repeat trip will be in order before too long.

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

A Hungry Girl Surrounded by Food

I live in the largest Muslim country in the world and I’ve made some amazing connections with people who continue to educate and enrich my life.

Before coming to Indonesia, I really didn’t know much about Ramadan.  In the past few weeks I’ve done some simple research and asked a lot of questions to educate myself since this year’s Ramadan was approaching rapidly.

Ramadan is the 9th month of the Islamic calendar, and during this month all adult Muslims are obligated to fast.  I found that “the act of fasting is said to redirect the heart away from worldly activities, its purpose being to cleanse the soul by freeing it from harmful impurities.  Ramadan also teaches Muslims how to better practice self-discipline, self-control, sacrifice, and empathy for those who are less fortunate; thus encouraging actions of generosity and compulsory charity.”

What better way to think of those who are less fortunate, than putting myself in a position of hunger?

From dawn to sunset no food or drink may be consumed  The usual routine is for everyone to get up before sunrise and eat, then go back to bed, then continue the day with no additional food or drink until after sunset.  I wanted to experience fasting, but since I’m not a morning person, I do NOT get up to have a pre-dawn meal.  I just get up when I need to, go to work and eat at night after sunset.  Lucky for me, life near the equator grants me a consistent sunset time of about 6:00pm.  Plus, I work in the evening, so I can conveniently eat during my school’s “dinner break,” which is a 20-minute break at the half-way point in our teaching schedule.

I’ve completed 9 days of fasting so far.  I began a little early to try it out…I wasn’t sure that I would be able to successfully perform this day-long task.  I allowed myself to have one cup of water in the morning, just because I live in a hot country, I’m usually dehydrated anyway, and I did not grow up conditioning my body to survive under fasting conditions.  The last 3 days of my fasting “trial” I was, in fact, able to survive without even drinking any water.  I consider that a complete success.

I am taking a break from fasting since I am leaving for an upcoming vacation, but I plan on continuing this physical, mental and emotional journey upon my return.  This experience wasn’t as hard as I was expecting it to be, which I was thankful for.  It did take me about three days to get used to the changes though.  I’d feel tired and I still craved sugar…because I usually eat sweets everyday….  But after those three days, I felt my body getting used to the schedule.  I had to slow down and take things easy, but that is a good lesson in itself.  Plus, I had plenty of time to think about those who never have enough and don’t have the luxury of eating every day.

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Cultural Places of Cental Jakarta

MONAS

After two failed attempts, I finally made it to the top of MONAS, or Indonesia’s “National Monument.”  It’s not the most impressive building I’ve ever been to, but National sites are important and so much pride surrounds the monument, that I felt I had to make it to the top.  A birds-eye view afforded me excellent glimpses of the lawn, park and greenery.  It was beautiful and I was happy to finally check that off my list.  The best part though is the price.  For just about 50 cents you can have this experience too, but get there right at 9am when there is no line.  At 9:30 there is already a significant queue and the heat starts to build!

DSC03847

ISTIQLAL MOSQUE

Not far from MONAS in lies Istiqlal Mosque.  (Please don’t ask me how to pronounce this….)  This happens to be the largest mosque in Indonesia and Southeast Asia and the 4th largest in the world.

The rules for this mosque are a little more relaxed compared with my visit to the Grand Mosque in the UAE.  For this visit, I did NOT have to cover my hair.  I was given a Batik robe to wear, just because I was wearing short sleeves.

Tours operate by donation only and I was led around for about 45 minutes while taking pictures and receiving lots of juicy education.  It was a beautiful place to experience.

mo

JAKARTA CATHEDRAL

Basically across the street from the Mosque is the Jakarta Cathedral.  This is a beautiful Catholic church on a beautiful street, surrounded by city hubbub.  There is a park-like area just outside the church’s side doors where visitors can find relief from the sun under some shady trees.  And inside the church is even more beautiful than the outside.

church

With so much unrest in the world and so many places unable to attain religious freedom, I found the juxtaposition of these two buildings reassuring.  Hopefully, at some point in my lifetime, I will get to see the people of the world being able to worship how and what they like, with nobody else interfering in anyone else’s business.

My fingers remain crossed….

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Lovely Lombok

I must admit I’ve been very blessed to see a handful of amazing places around the world, but this recent getaway has made me redefine the meaning of paradise.

I was itching for a getaway where I could have peace and tranquility and do lots of reading. Luckily I had to look no further than the island of Lombok.  Nestled just to the East of Bali, Lombok is a fairly large island that still has a slow, slightly undeveloped feel. This was great for me. Huge crowds are really not my style, so having the main conveniences available and being able to enjoy them solo was simply divine.

After a short 2-hour flight, I hopped onto the local bus for about 1.5 hours that took me to the city of Senggigi. The drive was filled with lush views of rice patty’s and glimpses of azure ocean around every hill.

On the main road, I was dropped off in front of Hotel Graha. Just to the left of the entrance I saw the sign for my homestay. I had to follow the signs for a while before Indah Homestay appeared before me, and what a slice of heaven it was. A simple room, lovely open-air bathroom, breakfast included and free wifi for $20 a night!

DSC04616

After a shower and a nap I headed out to the main road for dinner. I walked slow to take notice of all my options. It was hard to decide where to go because I actually had a handful of choices and every location was empty. Since I was on vacation I decided to eat the foods I don’t have very often, so I picked a place where I could get spring rolls and a vanilla milkshake. Delicious.

I was pretty tired from traveling that day, so I headed back to my homestay for a relaxing evening of reading…something I never get to do enough of.

The next morning I made sure I got up to eat my complimentary breakfast before heading out to find a beach. I was offered a ride to a beautiful beach about a 10-15 minute drive up the road. The view continued to be impressive and majestic as the motorbike climbed and crested each new hill, providing peeks of the tantalizing water.

Finally, the beach was before me and I took advantage of the cool water. After a dip I walked along the sand and took countless photos of the cliffs, the water and landscape.

DSC04623 DSC04630

On the ride back, I took the opportunity to stop and admire the rocky coast at one of the lookouts. I have nothing but respect and awe for what the power and force of water are able to do to solid rock.

DSC04653

I elected to be dropped off at Pura Batu Bolong, a Hindu temple that was built into the rock face on the beach just a 20-minute walk from my homestay. It was a small temple, so it only took a few minutes to see all the statues and platforms, but I could have stayed there for hours, just admiring the view and breeze on that extremely hot day.

DSC04665 DSC04691

After another afternoon of showering and napping, I again headed out to hunt for a delicious dinner in view of the ocean and earshot of the live (and good!) music at the neighborhood tavern.

I chose Lina Restaurant and quickly decided on a crab omelet and fresh pineapple juice to devour as I listened to the crashing waves and a beautiful rendition of ‘Knocking on Heaven’s Door” filled the air.

By the time I heard Bob Marley’s “No Woman No Cry” I knew I had to stay a little longer. That song reminds me of my time in North Carolina…another magical experience in my repertoire. So naturally, I took that as a sign that I was supposed to order dessert! There were only a few choices, but it only took me a second to pick a thick banana pancake and a cup of traditional coffee. I savored that strong cup (with the grinds mixed in) for another hour as I read my Kindle in the glow of the restaurant’s outdoor pavilion. A beautiful day and a beautiful evening.

For my last full day in Lombok, I wanted to take a tour of the Gili’s, which are 3 small islands just off the coast of Lombok, near the area where I was staying.

1

Gili Trawangan (or simply “Gili T”) is the biggest, and most developed, with a definite “beach town community” feel. It takes about 4 hours to walk the perimeter of the entire island, so you can imagine the “town” is pretty small. But since my stop was only about one hour, it was easy to fill my time with shopping, and inspecting every beach-side café while trying not to get run over by the horse-drawn carriages that roam the cobblestone streets…I love islands that don’t permit cars!

Next up was Gili Meno, the center and smallest island.  This beauty is known for its great snorkeling spots and its camping opportunities.

My boat captain moored our boat and I hopped in the water to try this new adventure. For someone like me who can’t really swim very well, this experience made me a little nervous. I had never attempted a water activity like this before, I had no life jacket, no flippers and basically no instruction. Despite all of these factors, I still got in the water and stuck my face into the beautiful blue sea in an attempt to take a look at what lay beneath. Needless to say this new experience did not last long, as I was paranoid I would hyperventilate from constantly breathing through the mouth piece. But I did enjoy myself and I was able to see some beautiful coral formations an schools of fish in the area near my boat. I’m sure my next attempt will be even more fruitful and last a little longer.

After we beached our boat I had about an hour to enjoy the pristine coast to work on my tan.

DSC04735

Gili Air is the last island in the bunch. I was going to stop here as well, but I had spent so much time in the sun that I didn’t think I had the energy to swim or sunbathe any more that day. So we circumnavigated the island and headed back to the Senggigi port.

After yet another (now ritualistic and necessary) shower and nap, I headed out for my evening prowl, to hunt for dinner. I wanted to try the restaurant in Hotel Graha. They have a restaurant on either side of the street, directly across from each other, which offered different types of cuisine. I crossed the street to enjoy the ocean front and the European selection of food. I started my amazing meal with an iced lime tea and spaghetti carbonara and finished with pineapple and cherry crepes with vanilla ice cream. So delicious!

That evening I reveled in peace and tranquility, for I knew the journey back to East Jakarta was going to be crowded, loud and tiring the next morning.

Although I only experienced a small part of Lombok, I would eagerly return to and highly recommend this island. Couples or singles alike will find anything they’d want or need. And even though amazing values can be had, the peacefulness ad comfortability are priceless.

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

An Indonesian Wedding

I was beyond excited to be invited to a traditional wedding.  Probably the most ritualistic event a person can experience, the wedding is filled with days and nights of preparation with each ceremony being very different from the last.

For this wedding, I attended what I would consider “the reception.”  Traditional weddings can have a few different vow ceremonies which can take place at home or in a mosque and are usually attended by close family and friends.  Sometimes days or weeks later the “reception” happens, and is much the same as what I would expect in the USA.  The bride and groom are dressed in traditional outfits, the wedding party is all dressed in a color of the brides’ choosing, and guests are there to eat and be merry.  Upon signing one of the many guest books at the hall’s entrance, we were put in the path of  large white “ballot” boxes for guests to drop their envelope of money for the bride and groom and then we were given our party favors before entering the crowd.

The food was buffet style and everyone was able to walk around, get a plate and mingle.  There were two types of rice, chicken and vegetable stir-fry, fried fish, beef “BBQ,” seasoned hard-boiled eggs, and cucumber salad in yogurt sauce just to name a few items.  And everything was more delicious than the last item.  The bride and groom remained on stage as a huge receiving line of friends and family came to give congratulatory messages and pose for the photographer.

DSC04558

Traditional batik patterns could be seen everywhere.  Generally, the men wore batik shirts and the women wore batik skirts with beautiful Kabaya’s on top.  Prior to the event I needed to go Kabaya shopping.  Thamarin City is a shopping area in Central Jakarta around all the huge malls.  Inside were large maze-like configurations where one could purchase Kabayas of every color and design, among other things.  They ranged in style from very traditional to very modern and in price from simple = reasonable to extremely intricate beadwork = very expensive.

DSC04549

I settled on a simple, modern, black Kabaya with silver trim, while Emma (I was her + 1), chose a beautiful batik skirt with gorgeous purple bead and sequin detail that she got for a steal.

IMG_5352 DSC04555

At the reception, there was also a live band, a beautiful flowered archway, and a “photo booth” area where we were given tickets to have a picture with friends taken as another memento of the event.

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Botanical Gardens in Bogor

About an hour East of Jakarta lies the little city of Bogor.  It was a quick and easy train ride to get there and then just a few minutes on an angkot brought us to the Botanical Garden entrance.

Before going in, we decided to take advantage of the delicious food stalls that were lined up outside.  Bowls of Soto Betawi were devoured…amazing flavor!  It’s basically a chicken curry soup with coconut milk and then I added rice.  I didn’t want to stop eating.

With happy bellies, we entered the sprawling gardens and began what would become a few hours of exploration.  For less than $1.50 we had access to everything.  There were museums, lakes, and endless acres of beautiful trees and foliage to wander around.  There were benches scattered around the park if and when a respite was needed.  Some were also strategically placed in optimal locations to enjoy specific scenes of fountains, bridges or highly manicured areas of lawn.

DSC04505 DSC04540

The museum I went into had a blue whale skeleton hanging over the entrance to greet the visitors.  Once inside, I was inundated with real examples of every bug and fly imaginable.  It was very interesting to see how huge (and I mean as big as my fist) some of these bugs were.  Educational aspects aside, seeing them under glass is the only way I want to encounter these creatures!

The other rooms of the museum had psychloramas containing examples of typical local animals in their natural, wild habitats, which were also interesting.  Some of the animals are pretty cute.  Every thing from bats and rats to the coffee-eating civets to birds and bears were on display.

Even though the rainy season is technically over, we endured a drizzle throughout the afternoon which kept the stifling heat at bay.  But then we got caught in a short downpour as we were exiting the gardens.  But the temperature was perfect and the entire area wasn’t very crowded which made the afternoon very peaceful.  An excellent day trip to stretch the legs and breathe some fresh air.

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Pari, Thousand Islands

It has been about 5 months since I’ve had to be up before the sun.  (Moving from the USA to Indonesia was tough on the body clock, but once I adjusted, I promptly stayed in bed until the sun was shining brightly!)  However, going away for two days and needing to ensure a nook or cranny on the boat to get there, meant getting up very early to journey to the marina.  Although I love boats, this area of Northern Jakarta is very dirty and smelly.  Plus traffic was so backed up (surprise, surprise) that my cab driver suggested I get out and follow the crowd of walkers to the pier, so I’d get there in time.

After asking about 20 people just to make sure I was getting on the right boat, I made some new friends.  I ended up sitting with them in the prime area of the open deck near the bow.  This wasn’t like taking a ferry in the states.  This was an old wooden boat with people packed in like sardines.  There was no ramp to get on the boat.  We had to get up on the concrete retaining wall (that had no railings or safety structure of any kind), and hop onto the edge of the boat.  At one point no one was moving and I thought my new friends and I would have to hang on to the edge as we departed for our 2.5 hour journey, but luckily we moved up and sat in the front of the windows for a great view and the breeze.  The sun was shining, but luckily it was early and the direct light wasn’t overhead to burn our faces.

I found out later that there were actually four other white people on the boat, which made me number five.  Out of about 1,000 people, we were the only ones.  I’m guessing that I got more attention because I was a white female traveling alone and they happened to all be in a group.

The island looked pretty big from the boat but I quickly found out how small it was.  The dock area was full of beautifully colored boats and marine services.

DSC04357  DSC04358

We walked maybe half a mile to our very rustic but cheap accommodation, which was at one end of the island.  My new friends and I stopped for some street food of cheesy omelets on a stick before checking into our rooms.  Then for about $2 you could have lunch brought to you, and I was shocked at how much food was included!

 

Street food wheeled card...serving omelets on a stick!

Street food wheeled card…serving omelets on a stick!

My delicious lunch :-)

My delicious lunch 🙂

 

After consuming some calories, we all rented some bicycles and decided to tour the island.  We rode on the brick paths that connect everything on the island.  With the exception of a few motorbikes, everyone traveled by bicycle or on foot…cars don’t exist on the island.  I love that!

DSC04367

We headed to the Virgin Beach to relax for the afternoon.  Not many people were there yet, so we had to share the area with just a few families.  We had coconuts and snacks, drank plenty of water and explored the shallow sea.  Near the equator, the ocean isn’t refreshing.  The water temperature can get pretty hot, so exploring in the afternoon sun was brief, and taking a nap in the shade was the only thing we had enough energy to do.

DSC04384  DSC04385

DSC04394 DSC04401

Feeling a little bit recharged, we rode around the island for another hour or so, taking in all the lookout points we could find.  The island was by no means pristine.  There seems to either be no rules about pollution, or no enforcement.  So there was trash or debris everywhere I went.  However, compared to Jakarta, this island was the cleanest place I’ve seen in Indonesia, so I wanted to capture every beautiful corner that I could find.

And yes, even though seeing the pollution makes me very sad and upset, there are still moments when I can see the beauty in an unattractive situation.  Just like this boy…yep, that’s right…sailing a refrigerator.

DSC04427

Just before sunset everyone performed a mass exodus to the beach at my end of the island.  People arrived in droves to get a seat on the jetty and prepare their cameras to capture the last glimpse of light the sun allows us to see with the naked eye.  Much like “magic hour” in the morning, the time right after sunset is equally beautiful to me.

DSC04437  DSC04445

After a quick shower and a short rest, it was time to get back on the bike for a late night ride through the village.  We ate at one of the many little family eateries.  After putting in our order, we sat at a big wooden table, under a big tree, in front of the moonlit ocean.  A welcome breeze was blowing, bring with it the aroma of campfires while keeping the stickiness at bay.  Plates of rice, tempe, and vegetables satisfied our hungry bellies before returning to the Virgin Beach to experience the island parties and BBQ’s.  The sounds of cooking fish and all kinds music filled the air.  It was a completely different feeling compared to just a few hours before.

On the way back to our rooms the island experienced a blackout which made riding a bicycle almost impossible, but very peaceful at the same time.  It was a fun way to end the evening.

Feeling extremely rested after an amazing nights sleep, I relaxed the next morning at the beach a few yards from my room.  The view was beautiful, which I could enjoy from a hammock as I read on my kindle.  (One of my favorite scenarios of all time…but one I don’t get to enjoy nearly enough!)

By noon it was time to settle my bill, ride the bike to the dock area and pick up my ticket for the fast boat back to the Muara Angke marina in Jakarta.  Compared to one day prior, the return trip only took 45 minutes or so, and the ticket was only about $1.50 more.  An excellent value.

Back at the marina we caught a ride to the fish market area.  As we rode along I saw wheelbarrows full of baby sharks, stingrays and types of fish I couldn’t identify.  The smell was terrible, but I’ve never seen anything like it.  We found a food stall that looked inviting and we quickly ordered kilos of various fresh catches.  There were clams, crab and some common fish that I didn’t get the name of, in addition to salad, rice, shrimp and otak otak, (some kind of fish paste, put into banana leaves and cooked over a fire, and then served with a mild sambal, or hot sauce).

 

Otak Otak before.

Otak Otak before.

Otak Otak after.

Otak Otak after.

DSC04475  DSC04476

 

Amazing unidentified flavors washed over my taste buds and made them exercise muscles they didn’t know they had.  Such a delicious meal.

Torrential rains poured as we were busy eating our mouth-watering dinner, so we were in rush to leave.  When the rain finally let up and our bellies were once again very happy, we tried to make our way to the main road but everything was flooded, as usual after a storm.  Luckily we were able to get a pedicab to get us through the streets and up to the bridge where taxi’s could be hailed for the journey home.

DSC04480

It may have been a quick getaway, but I saw and experienced so much in two days, and was lucky enough to make some new friends in the process.  It was a great success on every level!

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

“The Old Town”

I couldn’t wait for my day trip to the Old Town.  Today, it’s known as Kota, or Kota Tua, but in the early 17th century, when the Dutch had gained control of the region, it was known as Batavia.  Back in the day, this area was actually the capital of the Dutch East Indies and colonial influence can be seen all around the area, especially at Taman Fatahillah, the central cobblestone square.

DSC04320

The square is impossible to miss with hoards of street performers drawing mini crowds.  The square is lined with impressive buildings, museums and cafe’s.  I did notice quite a few Westerners, but they were all gathered in small groups in the safety of one nice café or another.  I was getting quite a lot of attention being the only bule sitting on a plastic chair, in the midst of all the locals, eating delicious street food, out in the open.

DSC04342

DSC04483  DSC04486

With a very happy belly, it was time to walk around.  Passing through a tourist trap shopping area and across the street, led to the beginning of Chinatown.  Though not a very big area, there were so many shops, fabrics and food supplies available in those narrow alleyways.  After a few minutes, the alleyway brought me to a beautiful temple.  The unmistakable gate and aroma of incense drew me in and held me tight for a short spell.

DSC04329  DSC04330

Afterwards, it was time to retrace my steps.  When I got back, the square was even more full, given that the sun was setting and the air was considerably cooler.

Even though it is known to be a bit pricey, give Café Batavia a try.  The elegant building at the corner of the square is hard to miss.  It’s a total trap, given that it’s a landmark and every guidebook sings it’s praises, but it is worth a look.  I recommend a second floor table by the windows.  The view is quite stunning, especially when the sun goes down and the lights in the square floor begin to come alive, marking walkways leading in every direction.  And if you are on a budget, keep your order simple with just a quick drink.  I tried a traditional Indonesian beverage called a Bajigur.  It’s a mixture of coffee, salt, coconut milk, palm sugar and vanilla…delicious!

DSC04321  DSC04489

From the square, it’s only a few minutes walk to the train station where I loaded the Women’s Car and enjoyed a “leer-free” ride home.  This country has an obsession with white skin.  Sometimes it seems as though the locals have never seen a Westerner by the way they look at me.  The girls wondering what it must feel like to have skin this light, because it seems as though the only standard they live by is the whiter you are, the more beautiful you are.  Combine that with the men hearing imaginary wedding bells when they look in my direction, wondering how light-skinned their potential offspring would be, makes for annoying stares that grow tiresome very quickly.  The women are never annoying, so the company of them on the train was quite nice as I made my way back home.

I very much enjoyed my day and hope to do more exploring of the area.  With so many awesome museums, I will have to make a return trip on a day when I can come early…most of them close before 3pm!

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Considering that I now live in South East Asia, I’m really trying to line up as many trips to nearby places as I can manage.  Although most of these adventures will be within the limits of Indonesia, I was able to make excellent use of a three-day weekend in March to leave the country and explore Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

I had recently posted about how my current life is mimicking that of a time nine years ago.  Interestingly enough, nine years ago I bought a book called (I believe) “The World’s Most Amazing Buildings.”  It covered structures from antiquity, places of worship, modern marvels, you name it.  This was where I first saw, read, and learned about the Petronas Twin Towers.  Before that point, I don’t know if I’d ever thought about the country of Malaysia, but it was on my radar ever since.  It was awesome to have the chance to explore the city, and I couldn’t have asked for a better weekend with which to see it.

I left Jakarta on a Saturday in the late afternoon.  It was nice to get to see Java from the air, and it was the perfect time of day to see an awesome optical illusion.  It was a very  bright sky and for about a minute before my plane entered the clouds, the sky and the sea were the same shade of blue.  It was like the island was hanging, suspended in space.  It’s moments like these when I realize I will never get tired of flying.

Then it was a short two-hour flight and entrance process before I was welcomed into Kuala Lumpur.  It took only a few minutes to get on a cheap bus to the city center.  Once there, it was a short taxi ride to my guesthouse near Chinatown.

For anyone traveling to this area and would like a simple and cheap place to stay, the Explorers Guesthouse is definitely worth checking into.  By far, the nicest hostel I’ve stayed in!  My friend and I had a private room, there was a shared bathroom, computers to use in the lobby, a free simple breakfast every morning and free coffee and tea all day.  And, (since I didn’t make it to the post office before I left), they even mailed my postcards for me.  Contact them at  explorers128@gmail.com, or just visit them in person at 128 & 130 Jalan Tun H S Lee.

DSC04120  DSC04211

After getting settled, it was time to head out to Chinatown to begin exploring and get some dinner.  I ended up getting chicken curry with rice, roti canai and a sweet lime juice.  It was so nice to be out in the warm evening, listening to Bob Marley, watching all the bule’s go by, late into the evening.

DSC04117

For my only full day, there was a lot to get packed into a relatively short period of time.  So after some toast and jam it was time to get picked up for our City Tour.

It began with the National Museum; a perfect place to whet the appetite with Malaysian history and culture.

DSC04128

After poking around for almost an hour, we made a quick stop at the Royal Palace.  It could only be seen from a distance, and it’s protected by a large gate and mounted guards.

DSC04141 DSC04145

Then we were taken to one of the national monuments.  In essence, it’s a replica of a war memorial in Washington, DC.  The same artist that created the monument in America created the one in Kuala Lumpur, but the faces and headwear are in Malay style.  Very beautiful area.

DSC04155  DSC04160

We stopped briefly in an area which had a lot of British influence.  Beautiful architecture, a clock tower, a church and an old cricket court made this area near Chinatown feel very different compared to the other areas of the city.

DSC04170 DSC04168

A decent amount of time was spent at the Royal Selangor Visitor Center, which is the largest Pewter factory in the world.  For generations this family owned business has mixed the elements of Tin, Antimony, and Copper together to produce some achingly beautiful pieces of art.  It was amazing to see the demonstrations of how the scientific and artistic aspects come together in such harmony.  After a lesson in the craft of Pewter-smithing, we were led into the gallery to have our purse-strings teased as we saw the finished products for sale.  Kitchen sets to cufflinks, teapots to trophies and wedding gifts to wall art, there was a perfectly polished piece of Pewter for every occasion.

DSC04179

The last stop of the tour was the one I’d been waiting for…The Petronas Twin Towers.  At 452 meters high and made of stainless steel and glass, this building dominates the skyline and catches ones attention in a few ways.  The area around the building is organized and well-planned, just like everywhere else in the city.  There is plenty of shopping, cafe’s and ice cream shops, which were all useful when dealing with the extremely hot climate.  Tickets to the top of the building were already sold out for that day and the beginning of the next week, which was a bummer, but I was so happy just to be there and get some cool photos.

DSC04187

After a little shopping and a cool nosh, I made one last stop at the Kuala Lumpur Tower.  Much like the CN Tower in Toronto, Canada, this tall building is basically one huge elevator shaft with some fun stuff at the top.  I immediately signed up to go to the highest observation deck, which is open-air.  It was a beautiful, clear day and the breeze up there was very refreshing.  From that height I could appreciate how built up and complex the city looked, but from the ground, the city never felt congested.  There really is a lot to see and it’s easy to get to any destination.

Back on the ground, it was easy to hop on one of the pink (or purplish) busses…which are free…that run every 20 minutes or so.  The circuit runs to the Central Market, which is right by Chinatown, which was right by the aforementioned Explorers Guesthouse, which made getting home pretty easy.

A shower was definitely in order after the day of walking around the equator.  Feeling thoroughly refreshed, it was time to hail a cab and head to Jalan Alor (a foodie street in the Bukit Bintang area).  An entire street of food stalls, outdoor café seating and interesting foodstuffs awaited.  A crazy mélange of items had a party in my belly that evening.  Dumplings, ginger onion fried frog, chocolate Turkish ice cream, sweet coconut juice, coconut ice cream and a red-bean Freezy all managed to get along surprisingly well.  What a tasty adventure!

Ginger onion fried frog :-)

Ginger onion fried frog 🙂

After the best nights’ sleep known to womankind, it was time to use Monday morning to do some local exploring.  The journey began directly across the street from the guesthouse at the oldest Chinese Temple in Kuala Lumpur.

DSC04221

Then it was time to experience the never-ending central market.  It was here that I acquired my requisite gifts that I perpetually hunt for in every new location.  This led to a bookstore where shopping and noshes of egg jam pastry and roasted duck with rice were devoured.

No sooner did we get back to the guesthouse, that we met up with our afternoon tour.  Once again I was in a van, moving down the highway to a new part of the city.  We made a quick stop in “Brickfields,” also known as Little India, to appreciate the culture and colors of this homogenous area.  Then is was on Batu Cave, with its imposing Hindu statue greeting patrons as they begin the almost 300-step ascension.  Wild monkeys looking for sweet snacks eagerly accompany guests to the top, but respectfully refrain from pestering those who continue on to explore the Hindu temple area inside.

DSC04239 DSC04251 DSC04270

After taking pictures, descending the stairs and munching on a samosa we managed to just beat the rain as we traveled to a traditional Batik shop. We were able to see the free-hand wax drawing of a flower design on beautifully colored fabric, in the flesh. I have such an appreciation for the born-talent of free-hand artists. Naturally, there were finished products for sale and I was happy to pick up some cotton and silk pieces for the family.
This tour was a short expedition, so there was plenty of time afterwards to return to Chinatown for some crab fried rice before heading off to the airport.

It may have been a whirlwind weekend, but it was a cheap, easy destination I was lucky to see.

 

Posted in adventures | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment