Sunda Kelapa

Posted on March 28, 2014 by Janette

Other than a dirty river that runs through my area of town, I live in a land-locked part of East Jakarta.  Considering how much I love the water, and all things nautical, I took a jaunt to the coast in North Jakarta a few weeks ago with some fellow teachers.  It was a simple day trip to get in touch with the maritime past and present of Sunda Kelapa.

The port is operational and I am assuming not much has changed in the last few centuries.  Rows of Makassar schooners lined the dock with men busying themselves with one task or another.  Cargo is still unloaded by hand without the aid of any machines, and boats are still maintained with sweat and elbow grease alone.

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A few blocks away was the Museum Bahari.  For about $.70 we gained access to the maritime museum that was seemingly endless.  Several very old warehouses had been concerted into this sprawling museum which covered everything from models and replicas, pictures, Indonesian geography and trade routes to salvaged items like sextants and Fresnel lighthouse lamps.

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Our admission fee also included access to the Watchtower just across the street.  This building is basically a lighthouse.  It was build in 1839 and was used to spot and direct nautical traffic into and out of the port.  We only had to climb a few sets of stairs to get to the top and were instantly rewarded with awesome views of the harbor and a magnificent breeze to combat the mid-day heat.

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After walking around for a few hours, it was time to get something to eat.  We walked just a few minutes to the Galangan Building.  It’s a historical building preserved from the Dutch colonial times, around the 17th century.  Besides the café, the building and surrounding area offered many options to individuals or groups planning various functions.  Since nothing special was happening the day we were visiting, we had plenty of opportunity to look around and take pictures of the beautiful grounds without being disturbed.

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Even though the local waters may be polluted, I will never get tired of the smell of the sea.  It brings the promise of adventure, thrill of the unknown, and the romance of danger with it.  I continue to be comforted by that notion of consistency in an ever-changing world.  Echoes of a simpler way of life will always benefit those willing to listen.

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Deja Vu

Posted on March 19, 2014 by Janette

It’s funny how time has a way of repeating itself.  This has been a year of change, of growth, of ideas coming to fruition.  And don’t get me wrong, I’ve been excited about every step.

This past Fall, I have concentrated on tying up loose ends, to exit one world and enter another.  Now that my new life and I have been getting on swimmingly, I’ve found myself pausing to reflect on my previous leaps of faith.  Some were a little better than others…I mean everyone has a few details they would like to forget.  But I couldn’t help notice how my current life is mimicking my life of exactly 9 years ago.

I was once told that if you experience deja vu, then you are exactly where you are supposed to be.  I like that reasoning.  I’m comforted by the fact that I make consistent decisions and am reassured in many ways that my path is my own and the choices I make with my heart and mind somehow resonate with my soul, keeping me on a consistent journey of sorts.

Clearly 9 years is a long time ago and some large details (like my location) are different of course.  But a new experience far away from home, a new job, a group living situation, personal life, even my unique work schedule are strikingly similar to the life I lived in my early twenties.

That experience 9 years ago was one of the absolute best and worst years of my life.  I was so happy to make my own way in the world and begin to figure things out for myself.  I think I learned more in that year than I did in all of high school and half of college put together.  Saying it was difficult would be an understatement.  Consistently working 60 hours a week in a fairly dangerous occupation tested me in every way possible.

Coming out of that experience a little burnt out was tough, but I knew that no other work situation would ever be as hard.

The first time around I was scared of the change and challenge.  This time I was yearning for it.  I also think I’m able to handle and organize much more than before, so everything now is so much more enjoyable.

It makes me wonder where I’ll be in another 9 years and what challenges I will prepare for myself; what exotic destination I’ll find myself living in.

Oh, the possibilities!

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How much is 2 million rupiah?

Posted on February 21, 2014 by Janette

I have been told this is the average monthly salary for a local Indonesian.  This works out to be roughly $200 USD.

I suppose I’m considered part of a skilled labor force, so I make more than this amount with a portion dedicated for housing costs.  But is 2 million rupiah enough to live on?

Yes…if you are on a budget (and stay away from bars which can easily take away your extra money), then 2 million can certainly be enough.

Lets go through some basic, every-day costs in the USD equivalent.

-Breakfast snack of 3 fried banana pieces: about $.20

-Warteg meal of rice, vegetables, egg and potato: $.70

-Strawberry (or other fruit) smoothie: $1.00

-Angkot ride (public transportation): anywhere from $.20 – $.50

-1-hour taxi ride through Jakarta traffic: $5-6.00

It is also easy to spend well over this amount…Jakarta is a large city with lots of amenities after all.  However, I’m happy to keep things simple and easy in my quiet area of East Jakarta, and only splurge once in a while.  Especially since “splurging” may only mean spending an extra $10 on something fancy!

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Cheese and Sidewalks….

Posted on February 15, 2014 by Janette

I know exactly what you are thinking:  “Janette, now that you are in your new tropical home, how on Earth could you miss anything about the US when you have so many new things to get excited about?”

The truth is, I am only human and sometimes I have cravings…and urges…and things.  One of those “things” I happen to miss is cheese.  Good, dense, smelly cheese.  The kind that will put hair on your chest, whether you want it to or not.

Back in Rhode Island, I lived down the street from “The Cheese Plate.”  It was an amazing little shop/restaurant that specialized in wine and cheese pairings.  Although I don’t drink wine, the cheese kept me coming back for more.  Looking back, I wish I had taken advantage of that lovely place a little more than I did.

For the foreseeable future I will be eating the generic, overly-processed (and tasteless) cheese slice singles OR I will be forced to pay exorbitant amounts of money for a small hunk of the real stuff that would probably only last one sitting.

Oh cheese…how I long to devour you…one, delicious, mouth-watering morsel of delight at a time….

Next up are sidewalks.  I’m used to walking many places, but those places are usually connected by paths…foot paths…made of cement, brick or some other stable building material.  Even if those foot paths are in a state of disrepair, there is still a designated area with which to walk.

In my new area, there are plenty of places where sidewalks simply don’t exist or they are damaged beyond all recognition.  I may see a piece of sidewalk here and there, a remnant of a former walking platform of one type or another, but one can’t be sure.

Then again, I suppose it’s not the worst thing in the world if I refrain from consuming lots of cheese, and the walk to and from my home is a bit more challenging.  But I also can’t help myself from daydreaming about these two random daily items.

It’s the little things in life…isn’t it?

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This is Bandung baby!

Posted on February 12, 2014 by Janette

My first real adventure outside Jakarta exceeded all expectations.  I was lucky enough to tag along with some gals who are fellow teachers at various schools in the grater Jakarta area.  Going on an excursion that I did not personally plan is a rare instance indeed, so I was very excited to just relax and take in all that happened to come my way.

We left from the Jakarta bus terminal in the late morning and drove about three hours through a bit of rain.  Since we all got up early, we chatted for a short while and then I quickly felt the need to rest my eyes.

Before I knew it our van had arrived in Bandung.  The weather was absolutely perfect.  The air was fresh and dry, the temperature was cooler and everything was so green.  After checking into the “Guest House Salon and Fora Gegerkalong,” we headed out to a popular shopping area.  We started out at a modern part of town which was beautifully decorated for the Chinese New Year.  After a snack and some window shopping, we headed past a food market to a local shopping area to practice our bargaining skills.  I made out pretty well, acquiring some cheap jewelry to add to my small accessory collection.

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Next it was time to get dressed up for the evening.  If we were cute before, we became a handful of hot tamales for a night out on the town.  We ate a nice dinner nearby our hotel and then made our way up part of a mountain to a pretty cool lounge to meet up with a friend.  The lounge itself was pretty nice, but the location was amazing.  There were lots of windows so patrons could allow themselves to be hypnotized by the slight twinkle of far-off lights in the outstretched valley below.  What a perfect place to spend the evening.

In the morning we organized a driver for the day.  Our first stop was a volcano about an hour away.  There was traffic (of course) but it was a beautiful day to be out exploring.  As we were getting close to the entrance, we all decided to exit the vehicle and walk to the top.  It was nice to get out and stretch our legs.  We walked around the rim and took some amazing photos of the crater before doing some trinket shopping and getting a snack or two to fill our empty bellies.

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DSC03969Hot springs are plentiful in that area, so of course we had to make a stop.  The springs were sprawling…and crowded.  The young, and young at heart, littered every space imaginable.  And being a more conservative country, swimmers were basically fully clothed while enjoying the therapeutic hot water.  I think most of us would have felt very under-dressed in bikinis, so we enjoyed the atmosphere by just soothing our tired legs.

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After a quick bite we were off again.  The countryside was so beautiful that we asked our driver to pull over so we could get some photos of the lush tea plantations that covered the hills.  It was so serene.  The vibrantly green plants, the absence of traffic, the slowly rolling fog devouring one row of plants at a time…mesmorizing.

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Our next stop was the floating market.  I didn’t know what to expect, so I found the area to be pretty awesome.  There were shops selling crafts and trinkets as you entered the area, as one would expect.  Then, as we followed the crowd around the lake, we saw a covered walkway filled with people eating delicious food-stuffs.  The makers and sellers of said food-stuffs were all in boats, in the water, lining the walkway.  It was awesome.  Being near water of any kind in the evening is pretty magical in my opinion, so I was very happy to fill my soul with the opportunity while it was available to me.

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DSC03995Finally, after a long day, our group was taken to a jungle resort type of place for dinner. We once again saw beautiful red decorations for the Chinese New Year and romantic lights hanging over the tropical plants.  We had a chance to refuel and relax after our action-packed day.  A walk around the complex led us to a beautiful waterfall for a late-night photo op before making our way back to the vehicle and on to our hotel.

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Our last morning in Bandung was pretty low-key.  Some of the girls went shopping, while some (myself included) took advantage of the spa in our hotel.  I treated myself to a cream bath for my hair as well as a manicure and pedicure.  It was about two hours of pampering, all for about $11…not bad.  Feeling like a new woman never cost so little.

After a lazy morning and afternoon our group made our way to the bus station, got our tickets and began the 3-4 hour journey back to Jakarta.

As the sun started to set, a gentle rain began to fall.  I was listening to music, staring out the window pondering how beautiful water can be in all forms, when I noticed that we were passing rice patty fields!!  The one thing in the country I longed to see.  There was a moment of pure joy I experienced that I continue to carry with me.  Any time a picture from a book becomes a reality in my life, I’m magically transformed to a girl of ten, smiling from ear to ear.  Sometimes the older I get, the younger I feel because I’m better able to digest the deliciousness of life.

I couldn’t have asked for a nicer weekend.  I am so happy that my first getaway was beautiful and exciting.

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7-11 sightings

Posted on January 24, 2014 by Janette

Armed with only my backpack, one random day off of work, I headed to the outdoor food court to use up some free internet.  Little did I know that my pit-stop at 7-11 would grant me one of my most memorable interactions thus far.

As I was making my selection of juice and chocolate snack, I noticed a group of middle-school aged kids watching me and mumbling to themselves.  I know I look nothing like the locals, and that alone is enough to get people talking or staring.  Since I am now a teacher, I figured it was only fair to make the first move and try to engage these kids in conversation, just so they know I’m approachable, and see if they take the bait.  They seemed nice enough, but shy.  They responded with the usual greetings but then moved away in a mass of giggles.  But as I got in line at the register, something unexpected happened.  One brave girl came up to me, and in her broken English, asked if I would sit with her and her friends.  I was touched and of course responded with a heartfelt “yes!”

The group consisted of five girls and one boy.  They took up the tables in the corner of the 7-11 store and had saved me a seat right in the middle so I could face everyone.  The who invited me over was clearly the best English speaker and acted as the translator for most everyone else.  I was only there for about 20 minutes, but I was asked about many topics.  The usual questions regarding my age, marital status and job were the first to be dealt with.  On the second round they asked me about my impression of the country, which included topics of food, culture and personal interaction, as well as some comments about the ubiquitous traffic.  It was obvious that this group of kids were curious about what a “bule” (or Western foreigner) was doing in their local area, but were delighted to hear how much I enjoyed and appreciated my new home.

As quickly as the conversation had materialized, it seemed to dissolve.  I said my farewells and expressed my gratitude for their generosity and encouraged them to get my attention any time I may be nearby.  I wanted them to know that my door is always open.  My goal for this year is not to live in isolation, but to be a local.  These are precisely the instances that I was hoping for.

Until next time….

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The Art of Honking Horns

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Janette

Horns are honked for many reasons.  Deciphering those honks is like the systematic process of identifying the cause of a baby’s cry.  This process is quite intricate but becomes second-nature over time (or so I’m told).

Let’s start out simple.  The primary honks are easy to spot.  The main streets are always crowded with hordes of motorists on any type of wheeled contraption imaginable.  Due to the chaos, honks are used to communicate multiple messages.  Sometimes you’ll hear a prolonged honk which says something like, “Buddy, you are in a vehicle WAY too big to be trying THAT maneuver!” or “Dude, there is NO POSSIBLE WAY we will get out of here alive if you keep on coming so STAY WHERE YOU ARE!”

Then there are a series of shorter honks.  This particular set of honks can be used for lots of reasons.  The shorter honks could say things like, “I’m a motorbike in your bind spot, please be aware,” or “I’m coming up on you really fast, so either move out of my way, or stay where you are so I can pass you.”  The personality of these honks can even be jovial, as if motorists are saying “hello friend, lovely day to be out on the road,” or “sure fellow driver, I have plenty of room, so come on over.”

Finally, we have the quick honks; the light touches of the horn that really serve no purpose whatsoever.  A few of these remain somewhat of a mystery, although after a month of living here, I can make semi-educated guesses on the purpose and intent of a couple of them.

First, we have the cat calls.  This a clear, nonsensical honk which is immediately followed up by a man yelling something (most-likely inappropriate) as he whizzes by.  There is no need to pay attention to these.  How long will it take men to understand that this interaction is NOT a turn-on?  The world may never know.

Next we have the honks with no follow up yelling.  These either mean that a motorist is thinking “hey there lonely bule (foreigner)” or as if to say “I am a motorist, and you are on foot, so I am being kind enough to identify myself in your general area even though there is no possible way I could hit you due to my current location.”

And lastly there are the mystery honks I need more time to figure out.  At certain times of night, on my walk home, when I come to a main road I must cross, I hear a quick honk that seems to really come out of no where.  There are hardly any cars on the road, traffic is moving well, and I am shrouded in darkness as I wait to cross, so what is the reason for the random honk?  Perhaps there is an unwritten rule that on any given roadway there has to be at least one horn honk every 25 seconds per 5 cars…the investigation is ongoing.

In such a huge city, with probably a million extra people over the limit of what the roads should accommodate, the honking of ones horn seems to serve more than just necessity.  It seems to have evolved into a protocol, a language.  And the volley of conversation is there, you just have to listen.

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A bella serata to remember….

Posted on January 7, 2014 by Janette

It was the perfect temperature with a slight breeze and a starry sky.  I was sitting in the taxi en route to our New Year’s Eve destination along with every other resident of Jakarta.

The traffic was especially impressive due to some major road closings, so what should have taken about an hour took more than two.  But I didn’t mind.  We were in a climate-controlled fish bowl, enveloped by celebratory souls who made up the gorgeous chaos that spread in every direction.

Fireworks were clearly in good supply as every clear patch of night sky had shooting stars with fabulous bursts of gold, green, and red ending their journey before fading away.  I could have stayed in that taxi most of the night, enjoying the colors, watching people, making wishes.  There was a peace inside my little bubble that floated among the energy that coursed outside.

With traffic stopped and nowhere to go, we hopped out and walked the last 10 minutes or so to a bar called Memories.  How appropriate.  A place and time when friends can come together and remember days gone by before the year’s end while simultaneously making new connections for a new year.

It was fun to see a new area of the city and see everyone out and about and having a good time as 2013 came to a close.  But as we checked our watches and phones as midnight drew near, there was no group chanting, no massive explosion of cheers and/or smooching.  There was just craziness the entire time with no countdown to interrupt the stream of partying.  That seemed unusual and it felt like something was missing from the experience, but maybe that was an appropriate message for me on this particular New Year’s Eve.  Perhaps the lesson is not to get stuck focusing on a single moment in time, but to focus on blurred lines and bigger pictures.

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An EF’in Christmas

Posted on December 26, 2013 by Janette

Arriving in Indonesia and beginning work right before the holidays has been fun albeit much different than home.

Since Indonesia has a majority of Muslim worshippers, you don’t see Christmas lights and decorations unless you are in one of the malls.  No decorated palm trees, no candy canes, no fake snow in the windows of well-kept homes.  These are silly details I miss greatly.

However, the charm of the season is alive and well.  In the EF teachers lounge last week, holiday plans were arranged, Secret Santa gifts were exchanged and sincere well wishes were given to one and all.

On the Saturday before Christmas, those of us who remained in town were taken out to a Mexican restaurant.  There were only a few of us from Kalimalang (plus our support staff), but we were joining the teachers and staff from the Bekasi school as well, so we actually filled up most of the bottom floor.  It was nice to at least see the other teachers, even just briefly.  The food was great, the live music was really good and it was fun to be outside of our little town for a change.

In the days leading up to Christmas, I took advantage of the peace and quiet (so to speak) and worked on a list of things I wanted to accomplish.  First and foremost, I slept in every day.  Since I got to Indonesia I’ve been awake, functioning and working for about 12 or 13 hours a day.  This is totally of my own doing, for the purpose of being as prepared as humanly possible so I can worry a little less.  (I’m hoping to cut this down slightly as I get more comfortable with the schedule and routine.)  After sleeping in I would read a little in my book, go over my Bahasa Indonesian flashcards and then finally take a shower and maybe take a nap.  I also went to a few different malls in the area to do some shopping for my room…and Merry Christmas to me!  I was able to get pretty much everything I still needed to acquire.  I got a wall hanging to cover up a lot of missing paint on my wall, a fan to drown out the noise from the neighborhood, a new bedside table for some extra shelving and surface area, hooks for the wall, a fluffy new pillow, new curtains and a book bag. (I didn’t realize how often I’d be toting my laptop around and thus needed a larger bag to make carrying everything more comfortable.)

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Also, after seven days of struggling, I was finally able to finally have a functioning cell phone, so I really enjoyed being in contact with everyone from the states.  It was truly a Christmas miracle.

However the experience of being here, now, simply doesn’t feel Christmasy.  And maybe that’s ok.  I definitely don’t miss sub-freezing temperatures, the treacherous task of getting myself safely from my bus stop to work/home, and the grumpy mood that the holidays sometimes put the general public in.  But that also means no parties, no “Christmas Story,” no “How the Grinch Stole Christmas,” no crisp evening walks or drives around the neighborhood to see sparkly decorations that warm the heart, and most disappointing…no homemade baked goods!  Normally my kitchen would be rocking!

But I’ve decided that it’s better this way.  I think I’d rather ease into my new life with fewer reminders of home.  This way it will feel as though Christmas just didn’t show up on the calendar this year.  So the next time I am home for the holidays, it will make the experience all the more magical.  Every twinkly light will be more memorable, baked goods will taste more delicious, presents for the tree will be wrapped with more care and precision and loved ones will warm the heart no matter the temperature outside.

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Interesting Indonesia

Posted on December 24, 2013 by Janette

In a country that hovers around the equator, I figured that my new home would be very different than my last one, but of course those differences are never exactly what I’d expect them to be.

Besides driving on opposite sides of the roads and there being few (if any) discernible traffic laws, there are other differences that totally surprised me.

Drug trafficking is punishable by death…and you are informed of this on the plane during the recorded safety announcements.  Even possessing marijuana is pretty serious, resulting in automatic jail time.  So kids, just say “no!”

You must declare a religion when opening a bank account.  I’m told this relates to how you are allowed to deal with your money in accordance with whichever holy book you follow.  Definitely didn’t expect that one.

Liquid comes in bags here.  Whether it be cooking oil, or laundry detergent, many liquid products that I would expect to come in bottle or can form comes in a bag.

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DSC03835Back home, the darker the tan you have, the more exotic you look and the more you stand out, usually in a good way.  It gives off the impression that you’ve been traveling around tropical islands enjoying a life of leisure.  Over here there is a draw towards white skin.  I noticed this immediately when shopping in any store with a health and beauty section.  About half of the beauty products contain skin bleachers to whiten skin…something I’m sure to avoid for many reasons.

The rain dictates what I do day-to-day.  The nights that it doesn’t rain I usually go up to the food court.  It’s usually a place I stop by after work since it’s really close to school and on the way home.  But even if I have the day off, I make the 20 minute walk there to use the free wi-fi with my laptop.  Since it’s the rainy season, the heavens can open up and flood 70% of my walk so I take the dry opportunities as they come.

Cigarettes are everywhere.  I’m definitely in the minority by not smoking.  Some establishments have a time limit where you are allowed to smoke inside after a certain time of the evening, but it still makes me miss the “no smoking” laws back home.  I hate being around smoke all the time.  Alas, with everyone here starting to smoke at a young age and with cigarettes being so cheap, I don’t see that scenario changing any time soon.

Listening to the music here is like stepping into a time machine.  From the times I’ve traveled around in vehicles with radios rocking out, I’ve noticed that they play a lot of 80’s and 90’s music.  Specifically Queen, The Red Hot Chili Peppers, and The Scorpions.  And as far as live music goes, everyone seems to choose Mr. Big, Extreme, Firehouse, Bon Jovi, and John Denver’s “I’m leavin’ on a jet plane.”  Not bad choices, I happen to enjoy this selection, but this is pretty much ALL I hear.

It’s been fun finding all of these idiosyncrasies.  I’m sure that more will turn up, so stay tuned.

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