Beauteous Bermuda

Posted on February 10, 2013 by Janette

I truly love the change of seasons, which is why New England has been a good home for me.  But, I usually try to break up the Winter months by going somewhere a little warmer.

A two-hour direct flight from Boston was all that was required to arrive in paradise, and I instantly fell in love…with everything.  I was only spending a long weekend on the island (Friday-Monday), but I was able to sample many of the local treasures, and all the while, kept asking myself:  Why the crap didn’t I come here sooner?!?

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I feel that Bermuda is the epitome of relaxation.  The island is quaint and quiet with brightly colored houses peppering the landscape.  The locals are friendly, helpful and anxious to find out where you’re from and what you’ve gotten to see during your stay.  And above all, the beaches are to die for.

Horseshoe Bay

Me at Horseshoe Bay

Elbow Beach

Elbow Beach

This getaway was taken in early January, so although it was a nice respite from the cold, the weather was only in the high 60’s to low 70’s.  Very comfortable, but not quite warm enough to go swimming perse.  A return trip in the summer may be needed due to all the swimming one can do inside the cave lakes, which would truly be enjoyable after a really long, hot day!

Cave pool!

Cave pool!

Once again, all my senses were engaged on this trip.  The air smelled fresh and clean, the caves I toured were complex and beautiful, and the Bermudian Wahoo (a grilled white fish served with banana slices and almond slivers) was mouth-wateringly delicious.  A trickle of water or a crashing wave was always nearby, coupled with a light breeze that constantly teased the skin.  Was there anything more I could have asked for? No….

One of my favorite experiences was searching for a place many locals didn’t even know about.  I was on the hunt for Glass Beach.  This was a small area of beach made up mostly of sea glass.  The notion was too exciting to be overlooked.  After taking the ferry to Dockyard, and poking around the ceramic shops, I hit the road to begin my search.  Not too far down I came to a small bay with a beautiful view.  I had to make a short climb down to the beach and then rock hop quite a way, but the journey was totally worth the effort.  The water was at low tide, allowing for the awesome rock formations to be shown in full view.  After taking no less than a hundred pictures of the scenery, I finally came to the area of beach densely covered by the sea glass.  Pieces of every size and color mingled with the rocks and sparkled in the sun like jewels spilled from a pirates shipwreck.  A very satisfying find indeed!

Glass Beach

Glass Beach

I’ve heard that 3 or 4 days is really all you need to see the island, and I feel like that’s a pretty good estimation. It helps that the island is only 20 square miles and the public transportation system is excellent.  I was able to cover a lot of ground in a long weekend, but was also left with a desire to return and a short list of additional places to check out if a second journey should be made.

Until next time….

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Arabian Nights

Posted on November 5, 2012 by Janette

In the middle of the day, on a random Monday afternoon in October, I emerged from the air-conditioned apartment complex I had been visiting and stepped out into the mid-90 degree heat.  Although I was standing in the shade, the heat still blanketed me and my skin instantly became tacky.  As I surveyed the deserted street, I suddenly heard a beautiful male voice chanting, singing…marking the mid-day call to prayer from the mosque that was two blocks away.  I had no idea what the voice was saying, but I was mesmerized by how the sound reverberated through the complex and I instantly reveled in the serendipitous event.  There is no way to calculate how long I stood there, transfixed.  But that captivation led to a moment of introspection and for a fleeting second, I was a believer. 

My desire to visit the Middle East had been growing for some time.  Through my Women’s Studies minor in college, I’ve learned a decent amount about this area of the world, the customs and the lifestyle.  Considering that the United Arab Emirates is probably the safest country in the Middle East, I couldn’t wait to hop a plane and see the area with my own eyes, cross checking my basic knowledge with the reality that would be before me.

 

In a country where gas is cheaper than water, camel racing is a sport, and the aroma of incense and rubbing alcohol is ever-present, I quickly learned how unique and diverse the area was, in many ways.  At every turn I noticed things I didn’t expect to see, which made me realize how much I had to learn about this country and this culture, even though I thought I was somewhat knowledgable before embarking. 

At the Palace Museum in Al Ain, I spotted this quote:

It was a challenge for me to not view the veiled women as oppressed, considering I have grown up in the US and the way of life is just so different.  However, during the museum tour, I had a chance to hear about the UAE’s short history (yet long bloodline) and how some forward thinking helped to unite the Emirates, keep the peace and invest in its people.  After gaining that knowledge I began to see how the people of this country have many opportunities to learn and grow.  I guess I just never considered the topic of oppression to be subjective, just like I never thought a conservative culture could be progressive at the same time, but I suppose not everything is as black and white as I sometimes think it is :-). 

Even though I am not a religious person, I still tend to be in awe of any spiritual structure.  My love of architecture combined with my theatre background leads me to religious centers all over the world.  The spectacle of a religious ritual or the atmosphere that a structure can impose can transport an onlooker to a place of peace, regardless of what their personal beliefs are.  The effects of the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi were no different. 

And yes, this is me, donning an abaya…. 

Don’t get me wrong, I would have preferred not to have worn this, but it was an interesting cultural happening to take part in, and if that was needed for admittance, then it was definitely worth it.  The mosque was absolutely amazing and I am so happy to have experienced being there. 

The best part of the journey was being able to stay with friends in Al Ain.  Between trivia night at the rugby club, a pool party, Moodz dance club, and the Sandance Festival on the Palm Islands of Dubai (where The Fray performed!), I had ample opportunities to meet people from all over the world who are living and working in the UAE.  These events are clearly for western people to hang out (and yes, drink alcohol), but it was still really educational and lots of fun.

During the few days that I was left to my own devices, more or less, I took many recommendations and saw the areas that my friends suggested, which included some touristy yet culturally significant places.  I saw impressive malls, modern cities, skyscrapers like the Burj Khalifa, Jabel Hafeet (which is the UAE’s tallest peak…and extremely peaceful), and experienced a desert safari. 

Burj Khalifa – the tallest building in the world

camel ride!!!

There was such a nice mix of tradition vs. modernity and I am so appreciative of the opportunity to really see this country as the locals do.  My time in the Middle East was very well spent and I hope more sultry Arabian nights will feed my soul in the future.   

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“The mountains are calling and I must go.”

Posted on October 22, 2012 by Janette

With a full tank of gas and the open road before me, I took John Muir’s sentiment to heart and headed north into the White Mountains of New Hampshire to celebrate the beginning of Fall.

I had heard much talk of these mountains, so I decided to take the trek and see what the area had to offer.  Before this getaway, I had only seen the Capital in Concord and the coastal city of Portsmouth, so going deep into the mountains and heading for New England’s highest peak had me eager to explore.

The roadways were peaceful as the three-hour journey began to unfold, and before long, I was deep into the White Mountain National Forest.

My first stop was the Franconia Notch State Park.  There were many exits to take, each one ready to whisk a visitor away to a beautiful area.  My location of choice was the Flume Gorge.

peaceful solitude

Upon seeing the parking area and visitor entrance, I was surprised at the scale.  Little did I know that the Flume Gorge is quite substantial.  It extends about 800 feet at the base of Mt. Liberty.  The granite walls rise to a height of 70-90 feet in some places and, even though there are nice wooden stairs and walkways guiding one through the gorge, the trek is about a 2-mile circuit and takes some time to work through.

I could not have picked a better day to do some light hiking in a beautiful park.  The leaves were just beginning to turn, the sun was still warm enough to allow hikers the comfort of not wearing jackets and there was a delicious crispness to the mountain air.

After burning all those calories hiking around, and dropping off my overnight bag at my little chalet, I was off to find some dinner.  The White Mountain Cider Co seemed incredibly charming, so that was an easy decision to make.  In addition to the restaurant, which was clearly a small family home at some  point in history, the property also contained a cider mill and a country store.  While enjoying a delicious steak dinner and a fresh “cidertini” I was caught up in conversation with the handsome bartender and two other locals on the art of apple pressing.  I received an education in the cider-making process and friendly companionship during an excellent meal.

The next morning I couldn’t resist going back to the Cider Co for  a look around the store.  They open up early every morning and serve fresh hot apple cider and apple cider doughnuts.  Mmmm…breakfast of champions.

After I was satiated, I only had to travel a few minutes away to pick up the auto road that led to Mt. Washington.  Home to “the worlds worst weather,” the peak elevation measures in at 6,288 feet, which is the highest point in the Northeast.  For the journey, each vehicle is given an educational CD to play for entertainment and enlightenment purposes.  Apparently the auto road is the oldest manmade tourist attraction.  Horse-drawn wagons used to take 4 hours to get to the top.  Now the trip up takes about 25 minutes, not including all the awesome stops one tends to make.

While in the 70’s at the bottom of the mountain, the top was bitterly cold, right around freezing and very foggy and windy.  It was difficult to stay outside for very long, so I took a photo or two and headed back down.  The summit was nice to see, but the journey there was the real treat.

After popping into the visitor center to see the little museum display and warming the soul with a delicious bowl of chili, it was time to make my way back down the mountain.  With each passing minute, the foliage became more substantial and the temperature became quite warm until, before I knew it, I was on my way out of the forest and into civilization again.  Until next time….

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Searching for…providence?!?

Posted on September 24, 2012 by Janette

Around this time every year, when the warm summer nights give way to cool autumn mornings, I find myself taking a look at all I’ve accomplished throughout the year and trying to find sources of inspiration to aid in goal-setting for the near future.  This, of course, takes many forms.  Sometimes I bury myself in travel memoirs.  Other times I watch documentaries or look up articles on a particular area or country.  Occasionally I check out the international safety ratings to see which countries are currently off-limits.  And then there are times when I do a combination of all these things.

I particularly like taking some time to revisit my travel journals.  It’s nice to keep those exciting experiences alive by reminiscing and getting lost in nostalgia.  Especially when searching for providence, I always make a point of reading the quotes I’ve collected which speak right to my heart, and sometimes my soul.

It is amazing how a few simple words can take us out of place and time, only to inspire us to contemplate new places and new times.  What a treat it is to allow our thoughts to drift along the fine line between fantasy and future plans.

In my opinion, an existential look at travel is very important.  Two great quotes I always come back to are, “We do not take a trip, a trip takes us,” and “Let the world change you and you can change the world.”  I know that romanticism tends to be a big part of my life, but make no mistake, I’m not an armchair explorer who sits around and waxes philosophic all day.  However, these quotes are great for opening the mind to think of something larger than oneself; to acknowledge that forces greater than thee are at work and we as individuals should be along for the ride with our senses acute and hearts wide open.

This mindset can be easier for some to achieve than others, and the subject of travel can be more complicated than it needs to be in some cases.  There are so many people I know who love the idea of travel but always seem to give reasons or excuses of why they cannot.  Whether it is money, family or their pets, the examples are familiar and recurring.  I, on the other hand, prefer to make excuses of why I should travel and how much importance should be placed on it.  The goal is to get excited about travel and then actually have the experience.

This brings to mind two more very meaningful quotes that I turn to time and time again.

“Travel is a way to give to the soul – experience the exotic, engage in other cultures, challenge your beliefs, and connect with who you are.”

This concept comes into play for almost every journey I take, especially journeys out of the country.  My small suitcase may be heavy, my days may be long and my feet tired, but my lungs breathe deeply and my heart is always light. 

Along similar lines comes a Frank Herbert quote: “Without new experiences, something inside us sleeps.  The sleeper must awaken.”  I believe this holds true for everyone.  Many things happen when we travel.  We step outside our carefully constructed comfort zones and put ourselves at the mercy of strangers, both foreign and domestic, especially if independent travel is the plan of attack.  We tend to be dazzled by our new environment, picking up on minor details we are usually numb to back home.  And, at least for me, a wave of mysterious energy seems to wash over the body, allowing for hours of exploring before the desire to rest and recharge.  If we fail to give ourselves these gifts of travel and experience, we remain numb and blind.  Without the opportunity to be enlightened, exercise our skills and knowledge, or utilize our senses, we fail to live as truly awake beings.

For the record, I want to make clear that I am not just talking about exotic travel to faraway lands that require exorbitant amounts of money.  My personal goal is to visit one new country and one new domestic location each year…not too crazy.  And with public transportation and cheap hostels, each trip I take is VERY inexpensive.  My point is that any new experience that brings you to a new environment is good for the mind, body and soul.  Understanding how nourishing travel can be is great, and being in the right frame of mind to appreciate a new experience is wonderful, but actually seeing a dream come to fruition is priceless.

My mantra for independent travel is a quote by Emerson, “Do not go where the path may lead – go instead where there is no path, and leave a trail.”

I’m not a resort or all-inclusive type of traveler.  I enjoy doing research of an area, looking at a ton of possibilities, then narrowing my focus to a few items that pique my interest and then trying to figure out how to put all the puzzle pieces together.  Attacking a trip from multiple angles is necessary to ensure I’m fully aware of all the wonderful things a new area has to offer.  I look up pictures and maps and articles and travel guides.  Finally, when I have put the puzzle together, and I know how to get from point A to B and so on, it is then time to budget, order tickets and count down the days.  I love knowing that each trip is unique to me and I’ll be able to enjoy my time in each location because I have purposely picked the areas that will fill my days.  Although I have been known to partake in a day excursion to get a history lesson and quick transportation to a few significant locations, I love having the option to make my schedule whatever I’d like it to be.  Having an entire trip planned out and almost every hour spoken for sounds exhausting and boring at the same time.  Knowing that I’ve carved a unique path from start to finish gives me a great sense of accomplishment, and a thirst to keep carving more in the future.  And true to the quote, I keep most of my travel info so I can be a resource for those individuals who may need a little insight before being courageous enough to take the plunge for themselves.

Home sweet home?!?

Henry Miller says that “ones destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.”  Ahhh, herein lies my personal challenge.  Sometimes my destination list is so long that I lose sight of how to properly see my current location.  This area will continue to be a work in progress, but what a wonderful project to have!  To assist with this challenge, I regularly use my favorite quote, which perfectly sums up my approach to a life dedicated to travel and experience.  T.S. Eliot writes, “And the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.”  What a wonderful notion.  I sometimes struggle with honing my ability to treat the area in which I live as an exotic place all its own.  I try to keep my senses open to fully capture the state of being and find extraordinary in the commonplace, but I have noticed that it is always easier to appreciate home when you are coming back from an experience in a distant land.

And so, with Fall having just arrived and a few months of travel research ahead of me, I leave everyone with a final quote for inspiration.

“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.”

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South Dakota and Canada: Part 2

Posted on June 20, 2012 by Janette

Perhaps it’s the years of not having a car that have produced my longing for the open road recently.  And boy, did I get a good dose on this last trip!

I left the East coast and headed into the mid-West in late May, which turned out to be a perfect time of year to execute a road trip.  With eyes wide open and a digital camera ready to capture all the unique things I was sure to see along the way, I quickly realized that much of the center of the country looks exactly the same.  Western Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and the edge of Minnesota all seemed to look like one giant state to me, discounting all major cities, of course.  There were miles of farm land and fairly straight roads with the occasional hill thrown in for spice.

It wasn’t until I reached the South Western corner of South Dakota that the terrain started to really change.  Small, bald, rolling hills slowly became larger hills speckled with dark green trees.  Then, out of nowhere, the tan, rocky formations of the badlands began to appear off in the distance.  Soon after being enveloped by the scenic beauty of the Black Hills, signs for majestic Mount Rushmore finally appeared.

A very nice compound was created around the memorial.  After parking, one could stroll around the fairly large area to take awe-inspiring photos from every angle.  After the initial mesmerizing view of the handsome gents, one could continue on past the cafe and gift shop, through the Avenue of Flags and arrive at the observation area for a more up-close and personal view.

One could not help but be struck by the patriotism and reverence of the sites creator, Gutzon Borglum.  He says, “…let us place there, carved high, so close to heaven as we can, the words of our leaders, their faces, to show posterity what manner of men they were.  Then breathe a prayer that these records will endure until the wind and rain alone shall wear them away.”   Powerful stuff my friends!

After crossing a much-anticipated monument off my list, my journey took me up through North Dakota and over the Canadian border into Manitoba.  Then, a sharp left took me through the province of Saskatchewan before finally arriving in Alberta.

Once again, a large part of Canada looks exactly the same…flat farm land and straight roads.  It’s not until the center of Alberta that the terrain changes and scenery comes alive.

Jasper National Park is where I spent my first two days in the Province.  The sheer size of this park is exciting, and a little crazy, covering a large part of Alberta and British Columbia.  Considering the magnitude, there was a need to hone in on a particular area to see, otherwise one could get overwhelmed.

Camping was everywhere, as was the wildlife.  In fact, I’m not sure which I saw more of while I was there, wildlife (goats, rams, elk, bear, and deer) or the parked RV’s taking pictures of them.

Jasper National Park

A Ram having a snack

The downtown Jasper area was adorable with countless gift shops and cute restaurants set against the backdrop of the Canadian Rocky Mountains.

After an evening of delicious wood fires and camping, it was time for more exploring the next day.  Luckily, the sky cleared enough to go on the tramway.  Just driving up to the landing afforded some beautiful views by itself.  Then, in an enclosed glass carriage, passengers are brought up to an elevation of 7,472 feet.  From the top one can see the entire town of Jasper, nearby lakes which allow scuba diving, multiple mountain ranges, and two rivers, one of which is glacier-fed and has a distinctive teal-green color.

The tram lets passengers off just below the summit with the option to hike the steady incline to the top in nice weather.  As it was pretty cold up there, a journey half way to the top is all I decided to do.  The view was amazing and the environment was peaceful.  In the distance I could hear the snow caps cracking and breaking, and since the majority of passengers remained in the enclosed tram area, I really felt as if I had the mountain to myself and the magical sights and sounds of nature were mine and mine alone.

Just me and the Rockies

Next, it was time to explore the city life.  I found Edmonton to be a large, beautiful place that is clean and manageable.  One must-see item is the Royal Alberta Museum.  This building covers every area of natural history in beautiful execution.  I purposely avoided the bug exhibit (to avoid nightmares that I’m sure would have been evoked), but the flora, fauna, fossils and geological specimens were absolutely amazing.

The Provincial Capital building was a requirement for the trip and it was just as beautiful as I expected.  Although, one thing I did not expect was the large fountain/public pool right in front of the Capitol.  Half-naked sunbathers and Legislation just don’t go together in my mind….  None-the-less, the building and grounds were a beautiful combination of city planning and national pride.

Edmonton, Alberta

Canada has once again treated me very well, and I look forward to a time when I can return and continue my exploration.  I’ve only uncovered the tip of the iceberg!

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Canada: Part 1

Posted on May 4, 2012 by Janette

Our great neighbor to the North…so friendly, so peaceful and so big!

The six-hour drive from Providence, RI to Montreal was smooth and uneventful.  After a few hours of making my way through Vermont on a chilly morning, crossing the border into Canada was no problem.  I think the border patrol guy got a kick out of my request for a passport stamp.  I just had my passport renewed so I couldn’t let my pages lay empty when I was in fact entering into another country!

It was smooth sailing all the way into the city.  There were more Canadian gift shops than Starbucks and you can only figure out the parking kiosks if you ask someone to translate the French to English, and even then it was tricky.

I got to hang out in a section of town down by the river where independent art galleries and specialty boutiques greatly outnumbered the people.  I instantly fell hopelessly in love with one particular artists work.  It was a collection of pale, cloudy landscapes in which each contained a single item of vibrant color; be it a frail tree trunk with a few green leaves, or a solitary monk, far-off in the distance with his blood-red robe taking flight in the wind.  It brought me back to my days in Japan, which pulled at my heartstrings, and my gaze couldn’t be torn away.  When I started thinking about strapping one of the pieces to the rental car roof, and also building a new wall in my apartment for the piece to go on, I figured that it was time to walk away 🙂

I at least got to see the outside of the Notre Dame Basilica and the surrounding downtown area before turning in for the evening.

Notre Dame Basilica

The next day began with a three-hour drive to Quebec City.  This was my kind of town.  Although my arrival was later in the day, I managed to get a taste of the Old City, which is inside the wall, and eat a delicious meal at a little place called Cafe Buade.  Le Voyageur Hotel was only a few minutes outside of the Old City, and it was very comfortable and affordable.  All the hotels in the area cost about $60.00 a night…which I was not complaining about!  Since I was on vacation, I decided to make good use of the hotel tub…the only item my wonderful apartment lacks 😦

The next morning was extremely cold and windy, but I made good use of the morning hours which were rain-free.  I got to explore the entire Old City, complete with pictures of me sitting on the imposing wall that surrounds that section of town, including the Citadel.  The Chateau Frontenac is the iconic symbol of the city, perched high on a hill which overlooks the river.

Chateau Frontenac

Due to the cold and the wind, I did not stay very long in that location, but it was nice to see the view and walk along the huge boardwalk, even if only for a short time.

Next, I made a pit-stop for coffee and crepes to warm up (delicious) before exploring all the little crooked streets with quirky restaurants and whole-in-the-wall gift shops.  It definitely felt European.  There was one whole alley where artists were selling their work and horse-drawn carriages were aplenty.

Just outside the wall sat the stately Parlement building, which is always worth a picture in my opinion.  That was the last piece of grand architecture to ogle before heading out on the 7.5 hour drive back to Providence.  The return trip took me through a small piece of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, which were really pretty…too bad I couldn’t have taken a detour.

Parlement Building

A short getaway, but well worth the drive.  It’s hard to believe that I’ve been in New England for 6 years, and I’ve not gotten to see these close Canadian cities until now!

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The Southernmost Point: Key West, FL

Posted on March 19, 2012 by Janette

Everyone has day-dreamed about living on an island at one time or another.  I’m no exception.  The thought of being far away from the main land and using an electric golf cart or bicycle as a primary mode of transportation will always remain extremely enticing to me.  For those reasons, Key West was one such place I had to seek out.

It’s been a while since a road trip had been taken, so I thought a small one was in order.  After spending a day and night exploring the greater Miami area and taking an evening dip in the hotel pool, I was ready to roll out of town the next day.

The vast expanse of water around the string of small islands was pretty cool to experience.  At some points there was either a few feet of land on either side of the pavement, or just huge bridges connecting the tiny islands.  Not very much protection from the beautiful jade-green water that’s patiently waiting to envelope you.

US 1

I planned on making some stops along the way to Key West, but high winds prevented glass-bottom boat tours and snorkeling excursions from taking place.  So, driving straight through to the end seemed like the best option.

I made it to Mallory Square just in time to see the evening ritual of the sunset celebration.  Hundreds of people gather on the waterfront to watch the sun slowly slip below the horizon.  The applause and cheering that came afterwards wasn’t thunderous or deafening, it was mellow and simple.  It’s almost as if the crowd was showing refined respect for the honor of witnessing such a beautiful spectacle.

The crowd eventually dispersed in every direction, slowly making their way to a bar or restaurant.  The night life was complete with live music, drunk college kids, street artists and lots of window shopping.  Then came the 20 min. drive to Sugarloaf Key and a good night’s sleep.

After some delicious breakfast, it was off to Key West again.  The day began with a tour of Earnest Hemingway’s house and then the Key West Lighthouse which was across the street.  They were both set in a beautiful residential area with a nice variety of flora surrounding the grounds.

A short walk down the street led to the “Southernmost Point” marker.  From there it’s only 90 miles to Cuba.  The marker itself is not very attractive, but the novelty of being there was fun and you can get a fresh coconut with a straw from a guy in a pick-up truck about 20 feet from the crowd waiting to take pictures with said marker.

Even though clouds were ominously approaching, my next stop was Zachary Taylor State Park beach.  The water was so green and the rocks on the edges of the water were huge.  The sand was a bit rough on the toes, but it was nice to lay out in the remaining sunlight for about an hour and watch as the small crowds of vacationers were slowly replaced by small flocks of seagulls.

The last morning in Florida began very early.  I made it to the Everglades National Park with just enough time to stroll around some of the trails for about an hour.  It would have been nice to really explore, but there was still much wildlife to be seen in that short time and I’m happy the quick stop was able to be made.

Another action-packed jaunt successfully completed.

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Viva el Peru

Posted on January 7, 2012 by Janette

” Let your life lightly dance on the edges of time like dew on the tip of a leaf.”                              -Rabindranath Tagore

I love firsts!

This was my first trip to South America, and  my first trip solo.  I’m talking about ten magical days of exploring and managing on my own in a place where many locals spoke no English at all…and I loved every minute!

This day was coming.  It was only a matter of time before my travel ambitions ran out of able-bodied companions.  So, this was my 30th birthday gift to myself.  I had my travel journal, my rough itinerary and my duffel bag, which was all I needed for the adventure.

From the beginning, there were many differences to note.  I knew this trip was going to be unlike any other I’d ever taken.  That notion was apparent on the flight from Miami to Lima when I noticed I was one of three caucasian travelers.  But I must also say that there was no reason to be uncomfortable either, especially when the entire cabin of passengers erupted with applause and cheers when the plane landed safely.  That celebration set the tone of the rest of my excursion.

After an overnight layover in Lima, I easily made my way through the Cusco airport, into a taxi and into my hostel.  It was located near the Cusco city-center, so walking around was very easy.

The church of San Blas was my first stop.  It’s a beautiful church that’s known for its elaborate wood carvings.  The audio headsets were all being used, so a nice young man offered to personally give me a tour…how sweet! (The blonde hair and green eyes got a lot of attention….)  After that, I had a chance to walk around the main streets, do some window shopping and make some travel arrangements for later in the week.  I also enjoyed a delicious pina/orange blended juice and some coca tea to prevent against altitude sickness…which was a serious concern. 

After 11 glorious hours of sleep, I was ready to begin my journey.  I checked out, hopped a group taxi to Ollantaytambo (1hr, 40mins), then caught my train to Aguas Calientes (2hrs).  The journey was amazingly beautiful, every minute of the way.  I saw so many people from all over the world in this tiny town at the base of Machu Picchu.  I only had one night there, so I decided to walk all around the town square, scope out the necessities for the next morning and treat myself to a delicious alpaca dinner.  The hot springs were a 10 minute walk outside of town, but I decided to forgo them.  I’ve been to enough hot springs in enough countries.  Plus, I wanted to conserve my energy for all the hiking I’d be doing the next day. 

Ahhh, the big day had arrived!  After checking out, eating my complimentary breakfast and getting my bus ticket, I was in line at about 5am to wait for a bus.  At 5:40 I was finally on a bus, switch-backing all the way to the entrance.  After showing my passport and ticket and picking up a map, I headed out (sans guide) to explore on my own.  It was a misty, foggy, chilly morning, but luckily it did not stay that way for very long.  I had about 1 hour to get myself to the entrance of Huayna Picchu.  (I purchased the combination ticket which let me climb both mountains.)  The gate opened at 7am and I had to climb up and back by 10am.  No small feat mind you!  Machu Picchu is already about 8,000 feet above sea level and many people get nasty altitude sickness and fatigue.  Just climbing around the site is exhausting.  Huayna Picchu is the large mountain behind Machu Picchu.  It’s an extra 1,000 feet taller which you are supposed to climb in about an hour!  I guess they figure an hour up, an hour to look around and rest, and then an hour down (which is not easier at all).  I can honestly say that was the most rigorous physical exertion I’ve ever been though, but worth the pain.  The entire experience was magical and something I’ll never forget.

Machu Picchu, with Huayna Picchu peak in the background

After I spent a few more hours at the Machu Picchu site and taken a ton of pictures, I got a bus back down the mountain, a train back to Ollantaytambo and a group taxi back to Cusco before crashing after an action-packed day. 

The day after Machu Picchu I was sick 😦  I think it was a combination of things.  I had a cold the week before my trip that may not have been completely out of my system.  Plus, I had done 5 hours of strenuous hiking at a high altitude in an extremely dry country.  I woke up, unable to move or breathe very well.  I think I strained every muscle from the waist down, plus I was congested and my throat was a little swollen.  I managed to drag myself out of bed and down three blocks to the mini pharmacy to get medicine and then went back to bed. 

After getting plenty of sleep and spending some time massaging and stretching my legs, I got up and went on a wonderful excursion the next day.  The first stop was the town of Chinchero.  It’s an artesian town where the families spin, dye and weave yarn into beautiful articles of clothing and pieces of art.  We saw a demonstration and got to talk with the locals before going to the next stop which was the Maras Salt Mines.  Very cool!  Apparently, a natural warm salt water stream was found flowing through the mountain.  Locals channeled the water through little irrigation chutes to fill up bays.  After about six days, the stream gets diverted so the water in the bays can evaporate and then the salt can be harvasted…awesome and beautiful.

salt mine

My last stop was the Moray ceremonial cite.  There are many stepped concentric circles arranged for unknown reasons, but the place was huge and fun to walk around.  During this excursion I met a really nice girl who took me out to lunch after our day was over.  She was a perfect example of Peruvian hospitality.

My time in Cusco was almost over and I now had to get myself to Puno, a little town on the edge of Lake Titicaca.  I signed up for a scenic bus.  I figured if I was going to spend a lot of time on a bus anyway, I may as well go for the longer bus route so that I could make a few nice stops.  I also recognized a couple from the day before.  It’s sad to say that I don’t remember their names, but the Chilean woman and Australian man were awesome and we had fun hanging out all day together. 

Our first stop was a quick one at a church in Andahuaylillas, which was called the Sistine Chapel of the Americas.  Next we stopped in Raqchi to see some beautiful temple ruins and got a sense of what life is like in the Peruvian countryside.  The next point of interest was lunch in Sicuani.  It seemed like the only thing in this town was the restaurant!  And it was perfect.  I had rice, curry potatoes, alpaca, and chicken with peppers.  My dessert consisted of white rice pudding (arroz con leche) and flan…two of my favorites.  Then we made our way to La Raya, where we literally stopped on the side of the road to take pictures with the beautiful snow-capped mountains in the background.  And finally, our last stop before getting into Puno, was to see a museum in Pucara.  There was lots of pottery being showcased, as well as intricate stone carvings that honored human sacrifice. 

temple ruins at Raqchi

After about 10 hours of bus riding, and sight-seeing, we arrived in Puno around 6pm.  I checked into my hotel, ate dinner with my new friends and called it a day.

Since I’m drawn to water, a lake tour was in order.  I went on a three-hour tour of the Uros floating islands.  We learned how the islands were constructed, ate some “island bamboo” and got to take a short ride in a traditional reed boat.  It was a gorgeous day to be out on the water, soaking up the 80 degree weather and enjoying friendly conversation with my little group.  There was quite a mix.  Besides me, (and Paul from PA), there were two Israeli boys, three people from northern Peru, and one from New Zealand. 

Lake Titicaca

After returning to dry land, I grabbed lunch at the “Sweet Cafe restaurant” which played American music videos only from the 80’s…awesome.  The Plaza de Armas is always fun to walk around to see people from all over the world.  Being near the water made Puno get chilly pretty quickly, so after my window shopping, I decided to get a cappuccino at a local coffee shop.  The town itself is a bit run-down with one real busy street in the middle that clearly thrives due to the tourists.  So, after warming up, I headed back early for a good nights sleep. 

I have to say that the Puno bus station is much less creepy when the sun is out.  I had my voucher, found my bus (a double-decker) and opted to sit in the front seat on the top level.  The trip was supposed to be a six-hour straight run back to Cusco, but outside Puno we stopped for an hour to have the bus tires changed.  The locals were not happy and it was funny to watch them get fired up.  We also ran into road work in the middle of nowhere which held us up.  Apparently, an entire section of road gets shut down for extended amounts of time when “work” is being done.  Reducing traffic to one lane doesn’t fly in Peru. 

I finally got in around 4:30pm and I was starving, and had to pee, (the bus bathroom was not open!)  I headed over to a little restaurant called Paprika and ordered a passion fruit juice and “curry” chicken, which was really just chicken in sauce that happened to be yellow in color, mixed with banana pieces, but it was still really good.  I also tried a mocha cappuccino and a fruit pancake, which was interesting.  I’m sure that altitude has something to do with it, but unless there is a sauce on your food, everything comes out dry…everything.

I took one last turn around the main square that evening to drink in the beautiful lights and sounds of this majestic area before turning in one last time. 

Since I still had unfinished business to attend to on my last morning in Cusco, I checked out and had the hostel hold my bag so my exploration could continue.  The first thing I did was get a taxi to the site of Saqsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman).  I walked around for about an hour climbing the trails and taking some amazing photos.  This site had some of the best monolith construction, and you can easily see that the stones fit together perfectly without using any mortar.  The area is already high on a mountain overlooking downtown Cusco.  Since my legs felt back to normal, I decided to climb to the peak to see Cristo Blanco (the White Christ).  The view was great and it was cool to be at the foot of the statue.  Every evening it gets illuminated so that it is forever watching over the city.

monolith construction

The next taxi I hailed brought me to the Pachacuteq monument and museum.  It was 7 floors of history, artifacts, and interactive displays.  The observation tower at the top was a nice touch as well.  From there I walked up the main street to take some pictures and pop into the largest artesian market in town.  After grabbing some lunch, I had to retrieve my bag and begin my return journey.  It’s amazing how fast 10 days went and how easy it was to see so many things.  Adios Peru! Until next time….

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Wonderful Washington…DC

Posted on August 24, 2011 by Janette

Although I have been to DC before, I’ve not been there in at least a decade, so there were many places on my list of things to see.

There were also many things I’d forgotten about, since 10 years ago my attention span was a bit different from how it is now.  For instance, so many delicious gentlemen were walking around in uniform…that should be common sensical, but not something I recall seeing.

One place I’ve always wanted to visit is Arlington Nation Cemetery.  I had no idea how huge it is.  At the visitor center I took a look at the interactive map and was blown away by how many memorials it included and how much area it covered.  The tram took us around to most of the cemetery and I hopped off at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier to see the changing of the guard (a delicious ceremony).  The stop after that was Arlington House, the residence of Robert E. Lee.  It is set atop a hill which has an amazing view of the cemetery down below, the Patomic River and DC in the distance.  And of course, in between the tram stops, all we could see for acres and acres were rows of solemn gravestones, lined up in military formation, constantly standing guard, so the living never forget their terms of service.

Changing of the Guard

so many graves

The Library of Congress is one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen and one of the best guided tours I’ve ever been on.  I learned so much!  I immediately had day dreams of working underground in the stacks of the library, helping to retrieve ancient maps and other national treasures for researchers making news-worthy findings…hey, it could happen 🙂  We also got to see Thomas Jefferson’s personal library collection and understood that a few hundred books that were frayed and falling apart due to surviving a fire could be beautiful, not to mention priceless.  This was probably the most awe-inspiring building in the US I’ve ever seen.

Library of Congress-typical decoration

Then it was on to the National Capital building.  I was so glad to be able to tour it without a reservation!  We learned about some art and architecture of the impressive structure, and had plenty of time to take beautiful photos of the inside as well as the outside.

National Capital Building

An unexpected stop at the Hirshorn art and sculpture museum rounded out my visit.  It is part of the Smithsonian museum collection, so it was free, like most of the museums in the city.  Not too shabby for a day and a half to poke around!  Now I have to think of another set of places to explore the next time I’m in town….

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The Big Easy

Posted on August 12, 2011 by Janette

That’s right, New Orleans, Louisiana!

Some charity work was long over due for myself, so my friend Ashley and I hopped some planes to New Orleans and got to work.

We were working and staying with “Hands on New Orleans,” a charity organization that helps put volunteers to work in a number of ways across the city.  In exchange for volunteering, we got to stay at their bunk house (which was stocked with food) for a mere $25.00 a night…an awesome deal if you ask me.

We wanted to stay busy and try a bunch of things, so our first day we worked at a mission making lunch for about 150 people.  After the food was prepared they needed our help reorganizing their food/supply pantries.  Organizational skills are in our blood, so we were in heaven.  We finished in no time and they didn’t have any other work for us to do, so we decided to drive to Baton Rouge for our free afternoon.  It took about 1 1/2 hours, but it was a beautiful day and a beautiful drive and I got to see another state capital!!!  Baton Rouge is a quiet little city, so it’s funny that the state house looks like a ridiculously huge sky scraper, but the view from the top is pretty impressive.  There was also a free state museum next door that we took advantage of.  We learned so much about the unique culture of the area, complete with local food styles, creole influences, jazz funerals and Mardi gras customs.

Baton Rouge, State House

Our “oil spill response” task was cancelled for the next day because the fishermen were going back to work, so there weren’t any boats to take volunteers out on the water.  We were bummed, but at least it was cancelled for a good reason.  We did some chores around the bunk house and then took the streetcar headed for the French Quarter to do some sight-seeing and shopping.  That evening we were helping out at a Halloween party at the children’s museum.  The kids were a handful, but we had fun and got out just in time to see the parade go through town.  The costumes and floats were pretty cool!

Our last day of service was spent at the Lower 9th Ward Village.  We were supposed to be rebuilding houses/yards, but we showed up so early, we were asked to help make t-shirts for the volunteers.  So we were taught how to silk screen and for 8 hours, that’s what we did.  They also fed us a delicious catfish lunch and got to meet a few of the other volunteers, some of which came from all over the world.

making t-shirts

We were pretty happy that in addition to doing some fun and diverse community projects, we also had plenty of time to explore, especially around the French Quarter.  It was a delicious trip.  Besides the local catfish, we also got to experience seafood gumbo, jambalaya, bread pudding, benyays, and fried alligator!  Mission accomplished 🙂

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